Alexander McQueen Returns to London for SS27 Show
Creative director Seán McGirr presented Alexander McQueen's SS27 collection in London, marking the brand's return after 25 years in Paris.
Alexander McQueen presented its SS27 collection in London on September 20, closing the fourth day of London Fashion Week. Creative director Seán McGirr orchestrated the brand's grand return to its city of origin after a 25-year absence from the London schedule.
The late Lee Alexander McQueen, born in Lewisham and trained at Central Saint Martins and Savile Row, often credited London as his creative heartland. "London is where I was brought up. It's where my heart is and where I get my inspiration," he once said. McGirr's show served as a trip down memory lane, reinterpreting the founder's greatest hits for a contemporary audience.
A Star-Studded Homecoming
Hosted at the historic Lincoln's Inn Chapel, the event drew a crowded front row illuminated by camera flashes. Attendees included Florence Welch, Emma Corrin, Sophie Thatcher, Jamie Campbell Bower, Eva Anderson, and Salma Hayek. The guest of honour, however, was punk icon Siouxsie Sioux. As frontwoman of Siouxsie and the Banshees, Sioux was a frequent muse for McQueen, who used her music to soundtrack several of his past shows.
Horns and Historical References
The show featured a distinctly horny theme, a nod to McQueen's history. Models' hair was gelled into devilish horns. The presentation also referenced McQueen's AW09 collection, titled The Horn of Plenty, which was itself named after a now-defunct Spitalfields pub linked to Jack the Ripper lore. Key looks from SS27 echoed that collection, including a raven-black dress nipped at the waist with feathers erupting from the hips and a dress constructed from glistening silver skulls.
Sacred Meets Subcultural
McGirr fused divine inspiration with London's underground nightlife. Silhouettes recalled McQueen's AW98 Joan collection, featuring lace face coverings, corsets with light organza skirts, and reflective fabrics. The creative director also cited Piero della Francesca's The Baptism of Christ as a key inspiration. This sacred imagery was juxtaposed with elements of the city's rave scene. According to show notes, the collection sought "synergy between the sacred and the subcultural." Styling choices like punky cemented hair, subtle bondage harness nods, reflective sunglasses, and extraterrestrial accessories evoked the atmosphere of London clubs like Fabric or UnFOLD. The presentation suggested McGirr, after years based in Paris, might have been missing a proper London night out.
