Bernhard Roetzel's Bespoke Shoe Journey
A personal account of adapting footwear to ageing feet and a collaborative capsule of bold outerwear for winter.
Two distinct narratives define the current menswear landscape. The first is a personal sartorial journey through bespoke shoemaking, while the second announces a loud collaborative outerwear capsule for the coming season.
A Bespoke Shoe Evolution
Bernhard Roetzel details his decades-long experience with bespoke and made-to-order footwear as his feet have changed with age. He began wearing Goodyear-welted shoes in the late 1980s and commissioned his first bespoke pair from London's Larson & Jehan in 1999, noting their lighter weight and sculpted shape.
His journey included both successes and learning experiences with various makers. A 2016 commission from a German shoemaker was unsatisfactory due to a last shape issue, while subsequent orders from Lucian Maftei in Vienna, featuring rubber soles and more toe space, initially succeeded. Roetzel found that even bespoke fittings could not keep pace with his feet widening, leading him to explore made-to-order options from brands like Handmacher and Ludwig Reiter. He specifically ordered Ludwig Reiter's 'Norweger' split-toe derby on a shorter, wider last, in size 42 standard width, which after stretching became comfortable. He concludes that while MTO helps with differing foot dimensions, the fundamental last shape is most important, and he now often wears softer moccasin-style loafers and desert boots alongside his adjusted Norwegers.
WACKO MARIA and NANGA's FW26 Capsule
WACKO MARIA and NANGA have unveiled a seven-piece FW26 outerwear capsule focused on down insulation and bold leopard print. The collection launches on October 31 and will be available at WACKO MARIA flagship stores, online, and through authorized stockists.
The lineup is split between insulated pieces and shell parkas. Four items are filled with an 85% down and 15% feather blend, each differentiated by its outer fabric. The range includes a reversible MA-1 flight jacket that offers two shell options in one garment, available in Black-Beige and Black-Gray colorways. Leopard print features prominently on four of the seven styles, with two of those executed in a plush faux fur finish.
| Style | Fill | Key Material | Print/Fabric Detail |
|---|---|---|---|
| Solid Black Down Vest | 85% down, 15% feather | Nylon shell | Solid black |
| Leopard Down Vest | 85% down, 15% feather | Polyester shell | Leopard print |
| Leopard Faux Fur Down Vest | 85% down, 15% feather | Acrylic-polyester blend | Leopard faux fur |
| Reversible MA-1 Jacket | Down core | 100% Nylon / 100% Polyester | Reversible, two-tone |
| Black Mountain Parka | None listed | Nylon | Solid black shell |
| Leopard Mountain Parka | None listed | Polyester | Leopard print shell |
| Faux Fur Leopard Parka | None listed | Pile finish | Leopard faux fur shell |
The three mountain parkas are designed as outer shells without listed insulation. The capsule emphasizes texture and graphic impact, pairing NANGA's technical insulation with WACKO MARIA's distinctive aesthetic for a statement winter layer.
