Glenn Martens Ends Diesel Era with SS27 Show and On-Set Orgy

Glenn Martens concluded his five-year tenure as Diesel's creative director with a Spring/Summer 2027 show during Milan Fashion Week. The event, described by the brand as marking the end of a major chapter, combined a final clothing collection with a live performance where models kissed in the audience.

According to show notes provided to Dazed, Martens described the collection as the essence of Diesel: disruptive, sexy, fluid, and fun. The designer's farewell presentation was held on September 23, 2026.

The Final Collection

Martens opened his last show with expert work in denim and leather. A leather vest, topstitched with white contrast thread, was layered over a ribbed knit jumper featuring jagged edges at the cuffs and neckline. The leather pieces appeared in buttery cream or distressed brown finishes.

A key technique involved trompe-l'œil, with some denim-effect trousers actually being made from laser-treated leather to mimic jeans. The collection also featured jackets and coats with trompe-l'œil shearling details. The ribbed jumpers with their distinctive jagged necklines reappeared throughout the lineup.

A Performative Farewell

While models walked the runway, a separate performance unfolded in the tiered seating. Diesel models planted among the guests began kissing each other in pairs, threes, and larger groups. The label called this a series of performative interventions orchestrated by the French choreography collective (LA)HORDE.

As the clothed dancers kissed and canoodled, loud moans played over the sound system. This final act served as a sexed-up celebration of Martens's time at Diesel, which was often defined by symbols of sex positivity.

Martens's Legacy of Provocation

Martens's five-year run at Diesel was notable for its brazen attitude and sexual themes. Past shows included distributing 200,000 boxes of Durex condoms for the AW23 collection and sending out butt plug-shaped catwalk invitations. Another runway featured giant inflatable figures appearing to ride each other.

The SS27 show crystallized this sexy ethos, blending clothing presentation with audience interaction. The Belgian designer's departure was announced just before the show, framing the event as his farewell.

Backstage photographs from the event were captured by Federica Fioravanti. The show's closing performance provided a theatrical end to an era defined by disruption and sensual celebration.