Glenn Martens' Maison Margiela SS27 Hard and Soft Details

Glenn Martens presented his second ready-to-wear show for Maison Margiela SS27 in Paris. The collection, named 'Hard and Soft', marks his evolving creative direction after he left Diesel to focus fully on the brand last year.

Martens had recently bid adieu to Diesel in Milan one week prior. His new work for Maison Margiela balances softness and edge through contrasting materials and playful details. The show featured a towering wall of dried flowers behind a herringbone parquet runway, with a wall-to-wall decaying bouquet installation setting the scene.

Key silhouettes and material contrasts

The collection juxtaposed delicate floral prints on dresses and skirts with sculptural leather and structured panels. A standout T-shirt dress was airbrushed by Hamburg-born artist Gerrit Jacob, with a swan on a cotton candy pink background. High-gloss coating was used on gingham tops and leather trousers.

Full skirts and stiff panels reminiscent of corsets added structure to tops and dresses. The more dramatic looks included a series of black bodysuits and draped black satin and jersey sheath dresses. A sculptural leather trench coat has a grey check wool lining under its double collar. A '70s-style flower-power printed maxi dress features woolly paneling at its open back.

Accessories were described as hitting new highs or new lows due to their plushness folding in on themselves. Sculptural coats, softly draped dresses, and Belle Époque touches were present in the final looks.

Notable looks and artistic collaborations

Standout pieces included the Gerrit Jacob-airbrushed T-shirt dress. A full set of silver dishware was molded into a breastplate. A gold floral jacquard trench coat received a second, silver-flowered collar.

A bold floral brocade trench with matching lace collar and boots appeared later in the show. One-of-a-kind designs included an airbrushed swan displayed on a gown. Vibrant colours included metallic orange daisies combined with a pink floral skirt and a green jacket.

Accessories and signature elements

Accessories explored extremes of plushness. Candy-colored cords were knotted into a net around a canvas bag and wound around the ankles of heeled sandals. Sumptuous leather bags are a Maison Margiela signature, made of thick brown leather, either plain grained or textural rib. The leather bags have an inviting aura likened to a deflated football.

A houndstooth suit was paired with squishy, pointed lace-ups. A cream canvas doctor’s bag was trimmed in tan leather and described as fit for a weekend away. Black net crochet and lace-up sandals were also featured.

Denim and leather jackets appeared throughout the collection, alongside a tuxedo jacket and a denim skirt. The first look was a khaki-brown trench draped heavily at the front. The collection aimed to make the unexpected feel wearable.