Valentino SS27 Antilibrary Collection by Alessandro Michele

Alessandro Michele unveiled his Spring/Summer 2027 Valentino collection, titled 'Antilibrary,' at the Bibliothèque Sainte-Geneviève in Paris. The creative director drew inspiration from Umberto Eco's concept of the antilibrary, framing the 80 looks as garments with the untapped potential of unread books, destined for different trajectories beyond mere wear.

The show was a maximalist exploration of color and texture. High-contrast combinations like yellow with pink, green with fuchsia, and acid lime with raspberry dominated the runway. Michele described the work as a joyful reservoir of forms and ways of inhabiting the body, belonging to a realm that transcends functionality and consumption. Some pieces may only exist on the runway, while others could become wardrobe relics.

Menswear Highlights

Michele's menswear challenged conventional tailoring with playful, layered looks. Baseball caps stamped with 'Villain Teen' appeared in black and hot pink, paired with items like a brown sequined cardigan and loose-fit denim. Experimental tailoring featured prominently, including a light blue top with navy plisse trousers and a violet blazer cinched with a red fabric belt.

Layering and visible underwear were key styling themes. Shirts were tucked into visible boxer shorts, with one look featuring gold boxers pulled high under a Chanel-style jacket. Lace fitted shorts were worn under jackets, and a pair of blue foulard boxers was paired with a floral sequined bib shirt. The collection referenced '80s fashion with shoulder pads and was described by one review as a greatest-hits playlist of the worst of that decade.

Womenswear Details

Womenswear showed an elaborate mix of fabrics and trims. Floral lace, satins, and ruched fabrics appeared in vibrant pink, lilac, magenta, gold, and green. Feathers and fringe provided movement, with sequinned coats featuring plumes at collars and cuffs. Structured elements like sweetheart bustiers and peplum tops were paired with plissé skirts and lace pencil skirts.

Accessories were equally ornate. The lineup included tinted rectangular sunglasses, pearl drop earrings, layered necklaces, and opera gloves. Footwear ranged from embellished knee-high boots to rosette-topped sandals and jewelled pumps, often worn with sheer socks. A magenta maxi dress with a plisse train provided the finale.

Conceptual Framework

The entire presentation was built on a conceptual framework of potential and memory. Invitations were a booklet listing 68 unread titles, and guests were invited to bring books. Michele stated that garments, like books, meet different trajectories-some are seen once, some preserved in images, and some enter wardrobes as relics gathering memories.

This emphasis on imagination over commercial realism drew mixed reactions. One review suggested the show was an elaborate justification where nothing makes sense, criticizing recurring motifs like hideous bows and comparing the styling to a tired magic act. It described the taste for kitsch as a foolish act of rebellion. Another perspective simply noted that fashion is worth keeping even when it remains unread. The final men's look, a neutral suit and tie covered in a translucent sheath, encapsulated the collection's theme of garments as preserved, conceptual objects.