Stylists Recommend Wide-Leg Trousers for Men's Wardrobes

Wide-leg trousers are being championed by menswear stylists as a viable alternative to skinny fits. After years dominated by tight cuts, high-end fashion houses and streetwear labels are now promoting more voluminous silhouettes.

According to the source, the trend is not new. So-called 'Oxford bags' with hems up to 40 inches in circumference were worn by students in the 1920s. The style was later adopted by icons like Frank Sinatra in the 1950s and David Bowie in the 1970s.

Starting Casual

For beginners, experts recommend easing into the trend with classic, casual pieces. Mr Porter style director Olie Arnold suggests starting with basic colors and fabrics. "Start off with a classic colour or fabric, such as navy or black in cotton or a wool-blend," he says. Denim is also cited as an easy entry point.

The key to balancing the look is simplicity. A well-fitting crew-neck T-shirt or Henley shirt is advised, often tucked in to highlight features like a higher waist or traditional front pleats. This approach was reportedly used by actor Jude Law in the past.

Smart-Casual and Office Wear

Relaxed-leg trousers can also work for smart-casual and business-casual settings. The trick is to keep the rest of the outfit streamlined. Tonal shirts, roll necks, and muted bombers allow the trousers to be the focal point without overwhelming the look.

For a more formal office environment, a cropped or tailored jacket is recommended to define the waist. Arnold notes that a well-cut pair of pleated trousers can add a rakish touch. "Pair with a deconstructed blazer, a crisp shirt and some polished Derby shoes," he advises. Rolling the hems slightly can prevent the trousers from puddling and create a better swing.

Streetwear and Fit Fundamentals

The streetwear and skatewear scenes have long use wider leg fits, often using thick cotton twills and denim. The look is completed with relaxed logo sweatshirts, hoodies, or chore jackets. Experts warn that proportion is critical. Giles Farnham, head of the River Island Style Studio, identifies a common error. The main mistake people make with wide-leg trousers, is going wide everywhere else, he states. He recommends pairing wide trousers with a fitted shirt for a considered look, avoiding a scruffy, baggy-all-over appearance.

Proper fit is essential. Trousers should sit at the waist, not the hips, to avoid a sloppy silhouette. The choice of footwear is equally important. Farnham suggests shoes with a wider, round toe, like certain sneakers, to complement the silhouette. Pointier, narrow shoes like loafers are discouraged as they can clash with the loose fabric.

Fabric and Color Selection

Fabric weight is key for maintaining the right shape, especially with straight-leg cuts. Heavier materials prevent excessive billowing. In winter, try a richer wool fabric like flannel and in summer a thicker linen, Farnham recommends. Thicker materials also gather better at the shoe.

Given that wide-leg trousers are a statement themselves, loud colors or prints are discouraged. Neutral colors like black, grey, or navy are recommended for easy integration into an existing wardrobe. For a casual option, relaxed-cut chinos in stone or khaki are suggested, paired with simple shirts or tees.

Pleated trousers, with their extra fabric through the thigh, are highlighted as particularly good for warmer weather and a relaxed summer aesthetic. Arnold advises ensuring a slightly cropped profile to keep the look current.