Parisian Tailoring's Overlooked History

Two distinct narratives emerge in menswear this week. The first looks at the rich, yet often overlooked, history of tailoring in Paris. The second examines a practical update to a contemporary brand's foundational casualwear pieces.

The Legacy of Parisian Tailors

French tailors have historically lacked the global recognition afforded to their British and Italian counterparts, despite often producing work of superior precision and handwork. This obscurity is attributed to the powerful marketing of Italian style and the enduring reputation of English tailoring, established by royal and military influence post-Waterloo. Even within France, the concept of a distinct national tailoring style is barely known, with most minds turning to Savile Row or Naples.

The roots of a definable Parisian cut are traced to the interwar period of the 20th century. A 1920s magazine spread described the Frenchman's style as "correct, close-tailored clothes" in sober colours, with a relaxed air. The post-1945 era solidified a classic French silhouette characterized by broad, lightly padded shoulders, a roped sleeve head, and deliberate drape in the chest and sleeve, all crafted from heavier cloths that facilitated ease of movement.

A significant shift occurred in the mid-1950s with the formation of the Groupe des Cinq: tailors André Bardot, Charles Austen, Max Evzeline, Joseph Camps, and Gaston Waltener. This group rebelled against classic conventions, seeking to invent new garment types and use unconventional materials. Evzeline experimented with jackets featuring hidden pockets, while Francesco Smalto, who later left the group, presented Space Age custom pieces in materials like vinyl. Although the Groupe dissolved by the late 1960s, its members and their innovative approach now define the modern perception of Parisian tailoring, representing the last major attempt by custom tailors to set men's fashion trends.

Elwood's Core Collection Update

Elwood's latest seasonal refresh focuses on two key colours: a rich Maroon and a subdued Dark Ash Grey. The update spans hoodies, sweats, tees, and outerwear, including returning items like the Knit Zip Sweater and new introductions such as the Core Polar Fleece. The maroon shade is highlighted for adding depth to staple pieces like the canvas Petrol Jacket and creating a considered look in matching knit sets.

Styling advice suggests pairing maroon with washed blue denim, ecru, or dark brown, while using Dark Ash Grey as a neutral backdrop. The recommendation is to repeat a colour but vary the texture-for instance, combining canvas outerwear with brushed terry underneath-to add definition to a coordinated outfit. The collection is designed for easy outfit assembly, with the strongest pieces being those that integrate seamlessly into an existing wardrobe.

The range offers multiple fabrications and silhouettes, with detailed attention to cut. The lineup includes several core tops and a variety of bottom options, each with distinct fits and details.

The more expressive Knit Zip Sweater and Baggy Sweater Pant set uses jacquard logos for a distinct identity. The guiding principle for the entire collection is to first select the preferred pant silhouette, as the cut is deemed more critical to the outfit's success than adding another matching top.