Knize Ten Fragrance: Myths and History of a Menswear Classic
Bernhard Roetzel investigates the origins and enduring appeal of the classic leather scent Knize Ten, launched in 1925 by the Viennese menswear outfitter.
The Viennese menswear shop Knize launched its signature fragrance, Knize Ten, in 1925. The perfume's history is wrapped in several enduring myths.
One popular claim in Germany and Austria is that Knize Ten was the first men's fragrance in history. The source notes this is unlikely, given earlier launches like Penhaligon's Hammam Bouquet from 1872. Knize itself does not repeat this story. However, it may have been the first scent created specifically to complement a men's outfitter's range and corporate image.
The Scent and Its Creator
Knize Ten is an unusual, smoky leather fragrance with a hint of vanilla. It is rather strong. Roetzel states it was one of the first leather scents ever created, preceded only by Chanel's Cuir de Russie in 1924. The perfume was named 'Ten' in reference to the highest score in polo. Celebrated wearers have reportedly included James Dean, Humphrey Bogart, and David Niven.
The bottle was designed by the Viennese graphic designer Ernst Dryden. Born in 1887, Dryden worked across Europe before moving to Hollywood in 1933. Film director Billy Wilder described him as "the most elegant man that's ever lived."
A Tangled History of Ownership
A complicating factor is that Knize does not own the rights to the fragrance. The source explains that the rights were allegedly held by the Paris branch of Knize and were lost when that store closed in 1972. Today, a German company named Knize Parfumeur owns the rights. Roetzel attempted to contact them for historical details but was unsuccessful.
He instead sought information from Drogerie Wittelsbach, a perfume shop in Munich owned by Bernhard Stadler and his wife. Herr Stadler said Knize Ten "has its followers" but is more of a fall and winter fragrance due to its heavy leather note. In summer, he sells less of it and more of Knize Forest.
Stadler provided a brochure from Knize Parfumeur, which listed the chronology of the fragrance range.
| Fragrance | Launch Year |
|---|---|
| Knize Ten | 1925 |
| Lady Knize | 1938 |
| Knize Two | 1978 |
| Knize Sec | 1983 |
| Knize Forest | 1993 |
| Knize Ten Golden Edition | 2000 |
| Belle Epoque | 2001 |
Most of these other fragrances remain available, but Knize Ten is the best known.
Enduring Appeal and Perception
In Germany and Austria, Knize Ten is considered very classic and 'old money'. The scent is distinctive and, once known, is not easily mistaken for another. It retains popularity among men who discovered it in the 1980s. Internationally, it is less popular but maintains a dedicated following due to its heritage and wearability.
Roetzel concludes with an anecdote about director Billy Wilder's enthusiasm. Wilder once bought the entire stock of Knize Ten from a Hollywood perfume shop after learning it did not sell well.
The fragrance is sold online by the Knize shop and other retailers. Physical stockists include Manufactum in Germany and Labour & Wait in the UK.
