JM Weston 180 Loafer Sizing Proves Unusually Complex
A visit to the JM Weston store reveals the brand's 180 loafer has a unique fit, requiring customers to often size down significantly due to its wide
The JM Weston 180 loafer is a notoriously tricky shoe to fit, a fact made clear during a recent store visit. The model's unique last and high-walled construction mean customers often need to size down by a half or even a full size compared to their usual fit.
The Unique Last of the 180
The primary issue is that the 180 is built on an old last that differs from most others in the Weston collection. While most shoe brands maintain consistent proportions across their lasts, the 180 and the Golf derby-style shoe are exceptions. These older designs are generally wider and rounder, featuring a high wall at the front. This combination gives the toes substantial room and allows for some width-wise stretch.
The Impact of a High Toe Wall
The high 'wall'-the side of the shoe running around the toe-is a key factor. Most shoes slope downwards at the front, reducing toe space and necessitating a larger size to accommodate the foot's forward roll when walking. The 180's wall slopes up more and less inwards, providing greater vertical space. This Ivy-style feature, seen even more pronouncedly in the 180 than in a classic Weejun, means a wearer can often opt for a smaller size, potentially by a good half size.
A Real-World Sizing Experiment
During the visit, two individuals tried on every size and width combination of the 180 in the Jermyn Street store. Their results were strikingly different, illustrating why Weston recommends trying the shoes on in person. One person, with long, thin feet possessing less volume, ended up taking a half size and one width down from his usual (8.5D instead of 9E). The other, with long feet that have more width, height, and roundness, went down a full size (9.5E instead of 10.5E). This divergence shows that online size comparisons are flawed, as the ideal fit depends on both the shoe's shape and the individual foot's specific contours.
Navigating Widths and Lengths
The store's extensive width options-up to six (A to F) for popular models like the black 180-are important for this process. The author notes a further complication: widths are relative to length, while lengths are absolute. Therefore, going down a length but wanting to maintain the same width actually requires going up a width. In the author's case, moving from a 9E to an 8.5D meant going down two widths, not one.
Weston's in-store staff are described as helpful and knowledgeable, guiding customers through the numerous options. The brand's recommendation for caution with online purchases is showed by this experience, which serves as a clear demonstration of the inherent challenges of buying shoes without trying them on first.
