Roo's 11-Year Journey Through Online Tailoring Services

Roo, who runs social media and video for Permanent Style, has spent 11 years navigating online tailoring services. His 45-inch chest and 40-inch waist, combined with a preference for a high trouser rise of 14.5 to 15 inches, make off-the-rack suits impractical.

He began his remote tailoring journey in 2015 with iTailor to get suits for his magic performances. Roo told Permanent Style the service allowed a completely new pattern, not just minor adjustments. The fit was good for a first attempt, though he now considers the quality inferior. The suit served as an inexpensive starting point.

The Luxire Workhorse

A couple of years later, Roo turned to Luxire, which has become his source for most everyday trousers and some shirts. A key advantage, he said, is the ability to source fabric independently and send it to them for construction. He cited an instance where he bought a Natalino jacket but had Luxire make the trousers from matching cloth.

Roo noted Luxire's work has improved over time, with cleaner finishes and stronger details like bar tacks. He said dialing in the fit requires understanding their system, which involves trial and error. Measuring a favorite garment or your own body each has pitfalls, as fabric stretch or construction differences can affect the outcome. He sometimes needed local alterations, like letting out the seat on a first pair, but considers it a trade-off for the remote process.

Stepping Up with Spier & McKay and Grand Le Mar

Roo tried Spier & McKay in Canada for a made-to-measure sports jacket. Having owned ready-to-wear jackets from them in their Neo 2 cut was a significant help. The system allowed adjustments to that existing cut, including making it roomier. He appreciated options like in-between sizes and the ability to lower the gorge height, which he called rare in made-to-measure.

His next step was Grand Le Mar from Sweden. While marketed as made-to-measure, Roo found the pattern could be altered significantly through direct communication. He cited examples like changing a single-breasted jacket to double-breasted or altering the gorge. This represented a jump in quality, featuring details like a Milanese lapel buttonhole and a hand-attached collar.

The Pinnacle: Collaro's Remote Bespoke

Roo described Singapore-based Collaro as a further step up, calling it almost a remote bespoke service. It offers a trial jacket for an extra cost, a feature Grand Le Mar lacked. He has received a brown flannel suit and a seersucker suit from them.

The process involves submitting photos of the received suit for fit assessment and video consultations. Roo said it's safest to stay within their house style, though lapel width can be adjusted. On his flannel suit, the makers themselves identified that his sloping shoulders caused a minor fit issue under the arm, which they corrected on the subsequent suit.

Roo attributed the smooth process to his accumulated experience and the high level of communication. He specifically praised his contact, Ignatius, for constant dialogue about pattern adjustments and technical suggestions. This communication bridges the gap toward an in-person experience.

Comparing Costs and Final Thoughts

Roo acknowledged he would choose full bespoke tailoring if budget allowed, for the experience and personal relationship. However, he values the expanded options available today compared to when he started a decade ago. He noted the growing trend of bespoke tailors offering remote made-to-measure and the helpful role of video calls and messaging apps.

The source provided the following starting price ranges for jackets and trousers from each service Roo used:

Roo concluded that while none of these services compare to real bespoke, they offer a viable alternative to ready-to-wear garments, especially for those with challenging proportions.